Skincare Ingredients To Avoid If You Have Older Skin, According To Our Dermatologist

Like many things in life, the ideal skincare routine is never permanently set in stone. Several inevitable factors can mean that your regimen needs a revamp, from fluctuating hormones and a change of environment to aging. As we get older, our skincare routines require new ingredients to meet our goals, and sometimes, we also have to ditch other ingredients that are no longer doing us justice. 

"In my experience, mature skin becomes drier, thinner, and more reactive, so I always advise my patients to be cautious with certain ingredients," says dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman of Kopelman Hair Restoration. In an exclusive conversation with Glam, Dr. Kopelman notes that harsh physical exfoliants should be the first thing to go, as they can be irritating to older skin that's more fragile than it once was. Yep, that means it's time to stay goodbye to your walnut-shell exfoliants — the supremacy of these products is one of the myths about exfoliating you should stop believing.

"I also tell my patients to avoid strong alcohol-based astringents and high concentrations of benzoyl peroxide, as these can strip the skin of its natural oils, making fine lines and dryness worse," Dr. Kopelman adds. While these are the main culprits that can jeopardize your skincare routine, the dermatologist explains that certain ingredients, including retinoids, can also be problematic when they're used excessively or layered with other ingredients: "I always remind my patients that more isn't always better when it comes to skincare." Some harsh ingredients might be part of what your skincare routine needs if you're over 40, but you should always tread carefully as the years go on.

If you buy into every piece of advice online, skincare routines can get complicated. Trying to incorporate all the guidance out there often means combining different products and layering them to maximize the benefits of each ingredient. While layering can be effective, some skincare ingredient-mixing mistakes can cause damage to your skin, and that's particularly true as the skin becomes more delicate. "I always warn my patients about layering too many strong actives, especially as the skin ages," Dr. Hannah Kopelman exclusively explains to Glam. "One of the worst offenders is combining strong exfoliating acids, like glycolic or salicylic acid, with retinol. This can weaken the skin barrier and cause significant irritation, so I usually recommend alternating nights instead." 

On their own, retinoids are usually fine as long as you don't use too much too quickly, as they often require an adjustment period. "Instead, I often recommend starting with a gentler alternative, like bakuchiol or encapsulated retinol, which are easier on the skin," Dr. Kopelman notes, explaining that too much retinol too quickly can lead to symptoms like peeling skin. You can get bakuchiol in the form of a pure serum like CELDYQUE's Korean Bakuchiol Concentrate, or you can find it mixed with other ingredients, such as in the LilyAna Naturals Firming Face Lift Cream, which also contains sea moss and peptide complex.

The dermatologist notes that another one of the most-problematic pairings is vitamin C and niacinamide, which can cause redness if the balance isn't quite right or if you have sensitive skin. It's also generally not safe to mix vitamin C and retinol together. "Hydroquinone, which is often used for pigmentation, should also be used with caution," Dr. Kopelman adds. "When combined with strong exfoliants or retinoids, it can cause irritation and, in some cases, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in darker skin tones."

The general rule when it comes to skincare for older skin is to focus on gentle, soothing ingredients rather than harsh actives. "When working with patients in their 50s and beyond, I always focus on hydration, barrier support, and collagen preservation rather than aggressive treatments that could cause irritation," Dr. Hannah Kopelman reveals in an exclusive chat with Glam. "I encourage using deeply hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and peptides to maintain moisture, and I can't stress enough how essential daily SPF 30+ is for preventing further UV damage." 

To this end, something like the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Moisturizing Face Serum with SPF 60 would be a great addition to your skincare regimen. Of course, your sun protection strategy should include more than just SPF — make sure you wear protective clothes and accessories to further prevent sun damage when you're spending extended time outside, too. And yes, you need SPF on overcast days — the myth of cloud cover has been laid to rest!

Since the environment contains so many pollutants and toxins that seep into the skin, Dr. Kopelman recommends reaching for antioxidants such as green tea extract and resveratrol. "For those wanting to improve collagen production, I often recommend growth factors and peptides, and for in-office treatments, microneedling with PRP or exosome therapy can make a big difference in skin texture and elasticity," she says. The benefits you can expect from microneedling, in particular, include a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and an increase in skincare penetration. Boosting cell turnover is important, too, and for this, the dermatologist suggests gentle AHAs, like lactic acid. "Ultimately," she confirms, "I always tell my patients that the key to great skin at any age is a gentle, hydrating approach that supports and protects rather than overcorrects."