Makeup Artist Tells Us 5 Outdated Techniques That Women Over 40 Should Avoid
There's no single perfect way to do your makeup. Even objectively effective techniques still work better for some folks than they do for others. Since we all have diverse faces and skin types, not to mention unique learning styles and lifestyles, a tailored approach to makeup and skincare is often best. After you reach a certain age, your skin will have different needs than it did in your youth, and some of those techniques that previously worked well for you suddenly won't be a great fit anymore. Hitting 40 is generally a good time to re-evaluate your makeup routine, though some women may need to adjust their regimens sooner or later depending on their skin.
To find out which of these previously loved techniques you should be ditching, we spoke to professional makeup artist and licensed esthetician Jade Griffin of Queen Productions. Griffin, who shares her makeup artistry on TikTok and Facebook, tells Glam exclusively that these old makeup habits tend to lose their appeal as you get older and often end up leaving you looking worse for wear. Some won't come as a huge surprise; forgoing primer isn't a great idea for those in their 20s, let alone for more mature folks. On the other hand, some of Griffin's suggestions may be difficult to come to terms with, especially if you're a heavy eyeliner fan. Though you ultimately should set your own rules surrounding your makeup and skincare, these expert tips can help you to look your best.
Skipping primer can backfire on anyone, but especially folks with aging skin
Makeup primer isn't just for mature skin; this subtle product glides on before the rest of your makeup and aims to make everything else look better by creating an even base. It's particularly important for those with dry skin, since primer can provide a dose of hydration that will prevent your makeup from sticking to dry patches of skin or crumbling in tricky areas, like the sides of your nose. But you can also get primers designed for oily skin to help mattify the area and reduce shine. You might want to check out the ELEMIS Superfood Glow Hydrating Primer Facial Moisturizer if your skin is on the oilier side, while the CoverGirl Simply Ageless Makeup Primer is a super-hydrating alternative. While primer isn't crucial, these advantages make it pretty important, and Jade Griffin recommends never forgetting to use it. "Always start with a primer," she shares exclusively with Glam. "It smooths the skin's surface and helps makeup last longer."
Primer is particularly important for mature skin because it can reduce the visibility of imperfections that we tend to accumulate as we age, such as wrinkles and fine lines. More mature skin also naturally has fewer sweat and oil glands, which means that it will become increasingly important to use products like primer that hydrate and smooth over those dry spots. To ensure your face primer complements your foundation (or skin tint), take into consideration whether you're using a water or silicone-based formula, and also think about the finish of your products. Whether you're going for a sheer look or something heavier, your primer should be chosen accordingly to match your foundation.
Heavy foundations don't pair well with fine lines and skin texture
Bad news if you tend to reach for heavier foundations — according to Jade Griffin, these aren't ideal for aging skin that has more wrinkles and fine lines. "Opt for lightweight foundations," she recommends in our exclusive chat. "Heavy creams and liquid formulas can settle into fine lines; choose lightweight or sheer options for a softer finish." If you have a history of acne, redness, or other skin imperfections, a heavy foundation may understandably feel like a necessity. Rather than going for an all-over heavier product, you can achieve adequate coverage over problem areas with something thicker, like a concealer, while using a lightweight product for the majority of your face. Keep in mind that since lightweight foundations are designed for less coverage, it's not a good idea to build them up in endless layers trying to get more coverage. If you use too much product, even in balanced layers, you'll just end up looking unnatural, and those imperfections you're trying to hide will still be visible.
Light-coverage foundation comes in a variety of formulas, including liquid, powder, and cream. Look for products that mention "sheer," "translucent," or "lightweight" on the label to ensure you don't accidentally end up with a thick, heavy product that will clog up in your fine lines. The Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hydrating Tint with Hyaluronic Acid has the winning combination of a lightweight formula and medium coverage. Another great choice for mature skin is the L'Oréal Paris Age Perfect Radiant Serum Foundation, which has the added bonus of containing SPF 50 so you don't need to apply sunscreen separately.
Thick powders will leave mature skin looking dry and cakey
As Jade Griffin explains, the theme when it comes to makeup techniques for older faces should be "less is more," particularly when it comes to the level of coverage and the consistency of your products. Since powders are naturally drying in order to absorb oils from your face, that advice particularly applies to products with this consistency. Use light, translucent powders," Griffin suggests in our exclusive conversation. "Heavy powders can make skin look dry, so stick to light dustings to avoid a cakey appearance." If you have a heavier powder that has become a staple in your makeup bag, you can still heed Griffin's advice by applying it with a very light hand. Otherwise, when it's time to stock up, go for a translucent variety.
The other option is to void powder products altogether. That typically means going for a liquid or cream foundation (though remember Griffin's suggestion to avoid heavy consistencies in these formulas, too), and liquid or cream bronzer and blush products. Liquid blush has really exploded onto the makeup scene thanks to Selena Gomez's Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Liquid Blush, but there are plenty of lower-end alternatives that still have great reviews, including the FV High Pigment Liquid Blush. You'll also want to opt for a setting spray to finish off your makeup and lock everything in place, rather than a setting powder. Check out the e.l.f. Cosmetics Matte Magic Mist & Set spray for a lightweight option that lasts all day.
Excessive eyeliner is often too harsh for older faces
Eyeliner trends come and go, from 2023's foolproof negative-space eyeliner method to white eyeliner, which shook up beauty routines all 2022 long. A favorite product for many, eyeliner can define your eyes and make the color of your irises more striking, while more advanced techniques can actually give your eyes a totally new shape. You can still play around with fun eyeliner trends after 40, but Jade Griffin recommends steering clear of styles that are too thick. "Go easy on the eyeliner," she tells Glam exclusively. "Thick eyeliner can be harsh; try a softer line for a more natural look." This sounds like bad news for fans of the cat eye, but this doesn't mean that you have to give up your ultra-trendy winged liner. Just try to keep the wing thin, fierce, and flawless, rather than something that Cleopatra might have gone for.
If you really don't want to part with your thicker liner, you can reduce the harshness of your look by opting for a softer color. Brown eyeliner hues, in particular, will give you a more natural look that tends to be complementary as you get older. They're also widely available and pretty affordable. For example, consider the Revlon ColorStay Eyeliner Pencil, which is just $5 at the time of writing. Otherwise, colorful liners are being increasingly used in 2024 to make the eyes pop — just remember to stay away from anything too dark.
Neglecting your skincare routine will show in your makeup
A good skincare routine is imperative for all ages (though, admittedly, more youthful routines start with just cleanser and moisturizer and get more complex as you age). Skipping this step is something you want to avoid when you're past 40, as it will show in your makeup when your skin isn't looking its best. "Maintain a good skincare routine," Jade Griffin cautions in our exclusive chat. "Healthy, hydrated skin makes makeup look even better." As mature skin tends to be drier, you're likely to really notice it when you skip steps like moisturizing or adding a hydrating eye cream. Mistakes like these can cause your foundation to crack or crumble, no matter how high-quality it is.
For those over 40, a good skincare routine will involve a great cleanser, eye cream, moisturizer, and SPF during the day. You can also incorporate active ingredients, including retinol to boost cell production and unclog pores and vitamin C, which is a powerful antioxidant. Just remember not to use retinol and vitamin C together, as it's not the safest combination. You can look for products designed for mature skin, like the RoC Retinol Correxion Max Daily Hydration Anti-Aging Face Moisturizer. But products that don't specify this might still be okay, provided they're hydrating. Contrary to popular belief (and some tricky marketing), these mature skincare products won't perform miracles, such as eliminating wrinkles altogether, but they do keep your skin looking its best so you can get the most out of your makeup.