What To Know Before You Switch To Fermented Haircare Products

This year has blessed us with a bunch of interesting hair trends. Summer saw the widespread popularity of the wet look via hydro hair, while haircare products focusing on increasing shine have been taking over the market. Now, we're applying a concept we know well from the culinary scene to our haircare routines. Welcome to the world of fermented haircare, which has been said to offer an array of benefits. The boost in popularity of fermented hair products may well have been triggered by Beyoncé's Rice & Rose Protein Ritual from her Cécred line, but several other similar shampoos, conditioners, and treatments are also flying off the shelves, including The Rootist's BioBrew Fermented Leave-In Hair Serum.

As certified trichologist Penny James of the Penny James Trichology Center explains, these haircare products contain fermented plants and oils, with fermented rice water being one of the most common ingredients. "Studies have shown them to help hair growth; they offer promising anti-inflammatory compounds that are helpful to balance the scalp's microbiome," she tells Glam exclusively. A 2023 study published in the journal Biomolecules supports this theory, finding that experimental hair products using fermented papaya and fermented mangosteen "significantly inhibited hair loss, increased hair density/thickness, and improved hair follicle structure versus placebo and caffein controls." Additionally, these products were able to balance the microbiota pattern of the scalp. 

Along with possible benefits like hair growth and a reduction in inflammation, fermented haircare may also lead to improved hair texture and a hydrated scalp. Penny James shares that incorporating these products into your routine is easy, but despite their many benefits, it may not be necessary to go out and replace your products with fermented haircare just yet.

Aside from the proposed benefits that fermented haircare products can have on your locks, including serving as a fool-proof way to stimulate hair growth and pave the way to a healthier scalp, they're also convenient to use. In our exclusive chat, Penny James reveals that you use them in the same way and with the same frequency as regular haircare products, pending instructions on the packaging. For example, the highly rated KamiCha's Fermented Green Tea and Rice Hair Oil simply requires you to add between one and four drops to your hair (or to a hair mask) and leave it on overnight. You could also apply it before styling your hair. As with any product, pay attention to how your hair responds to the fermented haircare products you use, and then adjust your use accordingly if need be.

The characteristics of fermented haircare products vary between brands, but a common quality you might notice is that they tend to lather easily. Because many are quite potent, a little also goes a long way. The amount of product you should actually be using may depend on your hair type and density, but these products generally require less to do more. 

Despite the benefits and convenience of fermented haircare, Penny James believes that the best solution for any hair problem is always tailored and unique to the individual. "With any new product idea to the market, not everyone will benefit from fermented haircare lines, and [fermented haircare] companies are creating a lot of buzz about it," she tells Glam exclusively, adding that everyone has a different microbiome, so balancing it should require a case-by-case approach. However, the fact remains that failing to balance your scalp's microbiome at all can lead to issues. Rather than immediately swapping your current products for fermented products, she recommends seeing a trichologist to find out what your hair and scalp really need and going from there.

"Here is my advice: If you maintain a healthy haircare lifestyle, this alone will help your scalp's microbiome," she says. "Much more research needs to be done about fermented haircare." That said, James does note that if you do want to try fermented products for the possible benefits, the risk isn't huge, even if the products don't end up working for you: "There is no real downside to using a product that will reduce inflammation and suppress itchiness." The real stakes lie in the loss of money for a treatment that may not suit you since some fermented products cost upwards of $50 a bottle. You could reduce the risk by starting with a more cost-friendly option that's still highly rated, such as Mimosu's Hair Growth Shampoo Bar, which is made with fermented rice water and will set you back only $15.98 at the time of writing.