What Really Happens To Your Hair When You Use Box Dye?

In today's economic climate, with prices rising each day, plenty of us have to cut on expenses that can't be considered necessities anymore. And for many, those include regular visits to the hair salon for a hair-dyeing job. Instead, at-home box hair dyes have become more popular — but it's no secret that often, your hair doesn't end up looking like the picture on the box after you've dyed it.

Whether you are using box hair dye regularly or you're contemplating trying it out, celebrity makeup and hair artist Jenna Garagiola — whose work is showcased on her Instagram — shared some of her knowledge with us to help you get all the information you need. "Box hair dyes are like a quick paint job for your hair," Garagiola tells us exclusively. "They work by opening up the outer layer of your hair, called the cuticle, with the help of chemicals like ammonia. This allows the dye to sneak in and deposit color." This unique process means that box dyes work differently from professional dye jobs at the salon, and thus can have quite a different effect. From why the color fades more quickly with box dye to why some types of hair damage come hand-in-hand with them, Garagiola shared her expert insight with us. And yes, for those who want (or have to) dye their hair at home, she also revealed just what her favorite box hair dyes are!

While some might believe that box hair dye and the dyes professionals use at hair salons are very similar, this couldn't be further from the truth. In our exclusive conversation, Jenna Garagiola explains that the colors work similarly, but a professional will assess your hair and desired look first. This will inform the choice of what kind of hair dye to use, the right ratio of ingredients, and the length of time it should be on your head — while box dyes aren't a tailored product. They're made the same for everyone, as all you're supposed to do is mix the ingredients according to the instructions and then let the dye sit on your hair for the prescribed time. 

"Box dyes are usually one-size-fits-all, so they're formulated to be strong enough to work on a wide range of hair types," Garagiola reveals. "That means they might not penetrate deeply or evenly depending on your hair's unique texture and porosity." So, while a box dye will get the job done, the results won't be as even and long-lasting as they would be if a professional had worked their magic.

Anyone who has ever attempted to dye their hair at home has certainly noticed that an at-home dye job tends to last for less time than a professional dye job. Jenna Garagiola explains exclusively to Glam just why this happens. "The fading of box hair dye is all about how those color molecules interact with your hair over time," she says. And since the dye sits mostly on top of the hair, eventually, it rinses away.

"Think of it like this: The color molecules are holding onto your hair, but they're not gripping too tightly," Garagiola adds. "Every time you shampoo, some of those molecules get washed away, especially if your hair is more porous or if you're using harsher products. Plus, environmental factors like sun exposure and heat styling can speed up the fading process by breaking down the color molecules even more quickly." 

So, if you are dyeing your hair at home, ensure you're keeping it as healthy as possible — this means not washing it too frequently, protecting your hair when needed, and reducing heat damage by using a heat protectant. The gentler you treat it after it's dyed, the longer the color will last on your hair. However, don't expect miracles — you can slow down the washing-out process, but those color molecules will eventually leave your strands.

While the uneven color and quick washing out are some of the main concerns that come with box hair dyes, the truth is that the damage they can cause to the hair is much more concerning. "When it comes to box dye, it's not just about the color — it's about what's happening to your hair beneath the surface," Jenna Garagiola shares exclusively with Glam. "The ammonia and other harsh chemicals in these dyes can strip your hair of its natural moisture, leading to dryness, brittleness, and increased breakage."

In fact, if you are not following the instructions on the box, you might end up with so much damage that you will need to chop it. "This is especially risky if you leave the dye on too long, thinking more time equals better color (spoiler: It doesn't)," Garagiola adds. "Overuse is another big concern ... if you're reaching for that box too often, you're putting your hair through repeated chemical stress, which can lead to long-term damage like thinning or dullness." 

If you are using box hair dye, ensure you research it properly because not all options are made the same. "... metallic salts found in some box dyes can create a buildup that makes your hair harder to color in the future, especially if you decide to go for a professional color correction," Garagiola explains, adding that in that case, even the results of a professional might end up patchy and uneven. And unfortunately, this is a problem that most likely won't be solved until your hair grows entirely out.

Just because box hair dyes aren't recommended by hairstylists, that doesn't mean people will stop using them. They are, after all, cheaper and more convenient. If you are considering dyeing your hair yourself, we highly recommend you research what brand of hair dye to get, as not every box dye kit is the same. 

"While I'm all about professional color, I get that sometimes a quick fix is needed. If you're going to use box dye, look for brands that prioritize hair health with gentler formulas," Jenna Garagiola tells us exclusively. She recommends Madison Reed due to the absence of ammonia in favor of helpful ingredients that actually counteract damage, such as argan oil and keratin. "Clairol Natural Instincts is another good option, offering a semi-permanent solution that's less harsh on your hair and includes conditioning ingredients to keep your strands soft and shiny," Garagiola adds. According to the beauty expert, these brands serve as a "step up from the more damaging alternatives" but still — she always recommends going to a professional who will know how to give you long-lasting and vibrant results with no (or minimal) damage. "Box dye can be a tempting quick fix," Garagiola admits. "But trust me, your hair will thank you later for choosing the healthier route!"