The Problems With Pimple Patches, According To Our Dermatologist

What did beauty lovers do before the arrival of the pimple patch? The truth is, it wasn't very pretty — from slathering on concealer to looking for the most inconspicuous Band-Aid of the bunch. Thankfully, covering pimples has never looked more stylish than it does today. Pimple patches have come a long way, with today's spot-covering bandages featuring everything from lovable cartoon characters to holographic stars. But whether you have acne-prone skin or get the occasional spot here or there, pimple patches are more than a mere fashion trend. Not only do you get the satisfaction of hiding an angry breakout in style, but many pimple patches are infused with therapeutic ingredients like salicylic acid, essential oils, and cica to soothe inflamed skin overnight.

Still, it's easy to wonder if something like pimple patches could be too good to be true. After all, many acne-fighting favorites, like retinol and benzoyl peroxide, have their drawbacks. To get to the bottom of the matter, Glam spoke exclusively with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Lauren Penzi of MDCS Dermatology, who was happy to share her thoughts on all things pimple patch-related. The good news? For many of us, there's no reason to put away the cutesy cover-ups just yet, but Dr. Penzi's expert tips will help you use them like a pro.

Most pimple patches are basically small hydrocolloid bandages, similar to the type you'd use for blisters on your feet or ankles. Though they're made with inoffensive materials like gelatin and cellulose, plain pimple patches may lead to unsightly side effects in certain users. "It is rare, but not impossible, to have a reaction to the hydrocolloid itself that is the main ingredient in all pimple patches," Dr. Lauren Penzi exclusively tells Glam. It's hard to say which adhesives are used from manufacturer to manufacturer — which might pose additional problems for those with sensitive skin. "It's not uncommon to have a reaction to any adhesive material that might be in the product," adds Dr. Penzi.

On top of that, an increasing number of pimple patches feature added ingredients, including salicylic acid and tea tree. While these topicals aren't inherently harmful, they could agitate the skin when used beneath a pimple patch. "Some patches also have anti-acne ingredients that can definitely cause an allergic or irritant reaction since it is left occluded on for so long," Dr. Penzi explains. "These likely present with redness, swelling, scaling, itching, burning, etc." What's more, using pimple patches alongside other active ingredients, like retinoids and retinols, can quickly spell out trouble due to overlapping ingredients and the patches' occlusive material.

Aside from their link to allergic reactions, there's another glaring issue with pimple patches that's easy to spot if you have regular blemishes. "They are only used to spot-treat one pimple rather than treating acne as a whole," Dr. Lauren Penzi exclusively tells Glam. "They are not treating the root cause of the acne. They act to absorb excess fluid and remove excess dirt, oil, and sebum, which helps to quickly shrink the appearance of the pimple, but do nothing to prevent getting more pimples." While it's true that pimple patches can lessen the appearance of active acne, it's best to consult with your doctor or dermatologist to address ongoing breakouts and stop them at the source.

From there, Dr. Penzi has another salient point about pimple patches. "They are most effective on superficial acne, like whiteheads," she says to Glam. "They may not work as well on deeper cystic acne." Unlike run-of-the-mill spots, cystic acne is noticeably different in that it causes bumps and redness beneath the skin's surface without a prominent whitehead or blackhead to dissolve. Yet, similar to other types of blemishes, cystic acne is best treated by skincare professionals rather than pimple patches alone. Given Dr. Penzi's guidance, there's nothing wrong with using your pimple patch of choice for the occasional whitehead or blackhead — just be sure to leave persistent breakouts to the professionals.