The Hourglass Silhouette Is Back In Style This Winter (But We'd Argue It Never Really Left)

During the autumn/winter 2023 runways, fashion houses such as Versace, Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, and Givenchy re-introduced the classic hourglass shape in their collections. This marked a departure from the generally androgynous fashion style of previous seasons. Of course, we know that trends come and go in a circular fashion, so it was only a matter of time before the silhouette clawed its way into the forefront of the fashion landscape again.

But let's take a step back and consider this: Did the trend really reemerge, or did it simply never leave? A closer look at the fashion landscape demonstrates that the classic hourglass silhouette has actually been here all along, so it's not a question of bringing it back into style but rather searching for it among the myriad of other timeless fashion choices.

Gianni Versace famously said, "Don't be into trends. Don't make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way to live." So, glancing into yesteryear's dernier cri will show that despite what sort of silhouettes fashion designers put forth through their collections, there were — and still are — several fashion enthusiasts of all genders who claimed — and still claim — their own style, the hourglass silhouette included.

Defined by a nipped waist and "balanced proportions" at the bust and hips, the enduring allure of the hourglass silhouette has weathered the ever-changing landscape of fashion trends (via The Concept Wardrobe). According to the Women's Museum of California, the hourglass silhouette can be traced back to the Victorian era when hourglass corsets as we know them debuted. After all, the 1800s were known for their emphasis on elaborate and structured garments. During this time, the iconic shape emerged as a symbol of femininity and grace, setting the stage for its continued prominence in the world of fashion. 

In the 1950s, the hourglass frame took center stage in evening gowns by designers like Christian Dior and Balenciaga. In the '90s, we saw the resurgence of bodycon dresses and the golden era of mermaid gowns, borrowing the appeal of the hourglass silhouette where the cinched waist accentuates the body's contours. Moreover, even during times when fashion rebelled against the ultra-feminine body shape and introduced jackets with broader shoulders and thick shoulder pads, the narrow waist made appearances, and designers embraced the waist in their more androgynous collections. Plus, mid-century silhouettes dominated dress trends in fall 2023, so we can see that the hourglass movement is still going strong. 

Ultimately, this silhouette consistently adapts to contemporary aesthetics while preserving its intrinsic charm, solidifying its status as a style that never really leaves the spotlight.

In today's fashion landscape, there's a notable shift toward body positivity and inclusivity, with designers and brands increasingly recognizing the beauty of diverse body shapes, including both slimmer waists and wider hips. As such, the hourglass silhouette seamlessly aligns with this broader commitment to embracing the richness of the female form.

On this, Katie Devlin, a fashion researcher at the trends intelligence agency Stylus, told The Guardian, "We're seeing an industry-wide obsession with hyper-femininity. There's been a change in the types of bodies that we see represented in fashion, [marking] a definite shift towards embracing curvier, more womanly figures." As society progresses, so does the narrative around beauty standards. The hourglass shape, once overshadowed by a preference for slimmer figures on fashion runways, has reclaimed its significance.

However, the fashion industry seems to acknowledge that the iconic hourglass silhouette is not a privilege for women alone. While historically feminine, the classic figure is on the verge of becoming androgynous, with people of all genders embracing the trend. For example, men's jackets that provide an hourglass figure became more sought-after in 2023, after being seen on A-listers like Daniel Craig. So, while it might sound like an oxymoron, men's jackets with cinched waists are actually pretty masculine; the narrow waist accentuates the chest and shoulders, making the wearer seem more muscular.

Renowned fashion expert Diana Vreeland once aptly said, "Fashion is part of the daily air, and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes." Part of this revolution is highlighted in Hollywood's choice of iconic lead actors. While fashion runways seem to lean toward leaner models, Hollywood went against the trend. A closer look at the history of the silver screen will show that it's often celebrated the allure of the hourglass silhouette, with sultry actors such as Marilyn Monroe, Salma Hayek, and Jennifer Lopez rocking it.

A recent example is "Barbie," in which both lead actors — America Ferrera and Margot Robbie — embody the classic hourglass figure. The symbolism in this is not lost — while Barbie is the ultimate embodiment of a figure that has been traditionally viewed as "ultra-feminine," in the movie, she moves past the once-traditional gender roles and becomes a force of nature, reclaiming her identity beyond beauty stereotypes.

Influencing both fashion and societal ideals, the impact of these actors is unmistakable in helping individuals of all genders positively embrace their bodies. So, even though fashion designers have tried to convince us at times that leaner silhouettes are the most fashionable, Robbie and the like are here to tell us otherwise. So, much like Coco Chanel, who once said, "I don't do fashion, I am fashion," these actors show us how to be ourselves and "do" fashion our way.

The classic hourglass figure has been able to stand the test of time because embracing the waist as a focal point in fashion ensembles offers a versatile and universally flattering style, present not only in glamorous evening gowns and the like but also in everyday attire. The flattering allure of this figure is not lost on celebrities, who always try to create a sensation with their appearances. 

Consequently, while one would expect fashionistas to adhere to fashion trends dictated by beloved designers, we've seen these celebrities going against contemporary trends and sporting the timeless hourglass silhouette instead. Case in point? The 2019 Paris Collections, where designers like Versace showcased a shift toward boxy, formless fashion attire and demonstrated that fashion really has no boundaries limited by an "ideal" silhouette.

However, even amid this trend, fashionistas continued to embrace the hourglass silhouette, showcasing its enduring appeal and resilience against fleeting fashion preferences. For example, Kim Kardashian's appearance at the 2019 Emmys blatantly defied contemporary fashion choices that leaned toward more formless aesthetics. Instead, she wore a skintight black dress, which not only celebrated but boldly accentuated her figure. In this moment, she wasn't only stunning but also proved our point: The classic hourglass silhouette never fully left and never will.