Phoebe Philo in Fall 2005
Phoebe Philo is back, but not to bring smooshy leather idealism again to Chlo, but as the next creative director of fellow French fashion house, Cline.
LVMH Mot Hennessy confirmed to WWD exclusively on Sept. 4th. The magazine immediately published the news, but in short, almost byte form - so here you get a detailed reaction with enough information to match…
Despite creating arguably the world’s favorite IT bag with the company, Philo left the design world completely 2 years ago to stay home with a new baby, who’s now 3 with a younger sibling of 18 months*. The deal with Cline that appealed to the new mom is that she would be allowed to stay and work in her home town of London, and not the headquarters of both houses, Paris, France. (*Source) Why the success her Paddington and other beloved purses being responsible for Chlo’s clout of today didn’t cause Phoebe to merely take temporary maternity leave, with parent company, Richemont, offering this same compromise is beyond me. (Are they so evil as to obligate themselves to pinch pennies and ditch the finer skins of life that Philo inspired in the manufacturing?)
OUT: Ivana Omazic
Some journalists claim this will be a boost needed for Cline, a company recently faltering, even with Ivana Omazic showing hints at purse innovations recently. One being a handbag with a large mirror on the outside for the veinest of fashionistas - its (lack of) level of stylishness contrasting that cool tongue-in-chic, however. I do hope to see Omazic work on her potential for whomever else she designs, but who?–the fashion business is short-tempered and impatient. Was she sacked, or did she leave Cline and her budding creations and ideas behind by her own choice? LVMH simply said in a statement that she’s leaving after three years. (Real loyal parting words, eh?) It must be a tough break to make, for example Philo will nevermore have her Paddington.
Cline's " Watch Me, Mirror" by Omazic
So how excited can we be for Phoebe’s purses of the future at Cline? I’m a mix of skeptical and wildly excited. Firstly, Phoebe mentioned to The Herald Tribune she’ll re-invent and evolve her fashion aesthetic (they printed no exact quote). It’s not to say that a giant padlock isn’t exactly an immature style preference, yet I hope to recognize what I do love from the designer in whatever the old self she keeps. And even that definitely leaves promise that coming Cline bags will sport the most divine leather - especially with their current sub-line named “cuir sulky” which is literally intended to be “slouchy leather”. Sounds like Philo is the best choice for Cline, therefore I’m not surprised they fought for her.
Photos of The (my) Great Paddington, and some features.Cline has two other handbag sub-lines that bring excitement to my daydreams of what my Paddy-designer might do. 1. a “Watch Me __“ (move, work, play, dance, etc.) named range that gives opportunity for fun - however currently the styles are mostly dull. 2. “Tourbillon” which represents the “swirl” of their own pattern. Far from monogram, it is however a sturdy coated canvas for everyday (even chores like gardening) with a lower pricetag - swoon. Not much leather there, but I have had curiosity as to what Chlo would do with signature - and Philo is to me the quintessential Chlo designer.
(Now we just need to end this recession and bring back our economy so I can attain a piece [and more to follow] of this fashion history from a favorite designer for my collecting status. [I need more than a price decrease, I myself need a "raise".)
What about Ivana Omazic though? Perhaps she's even been inspired to create her own namesake brand - which is something one doesn't easily leave for others to takeover and break. And that reminds me of my true and long-held hope; that a Phoebe Philo collection, itself, will appear - although with no Phoebe-done Paddies, it's still second in my prayers to her to re-joining Chlo and putting her stamp on the Bay, the Heloise - and bring back 2006 leather. (Did you know that the soft Paddy leather "left" after Philo did the same year of 2006? Um-hum.) But I do think my third choice definitely is now Cline - hopefully, third dream come true's a charm.
Moving on is not always moving up, though, I want to note that when Stella McCartney left Chlo, making way for Phoebe to helm, she chose to produce *icky* "pleather" (ok ok "high quality" vegan imitation leather [yeah right]) purses for her own “dear” name. Uh - downgrade?
FYI, Philo is instead moving to a company that designs with fur, however the vegetarian vowed not to use it herself (thank goddess she’s not vegan!). Potential upgrade for Cline(?) and animal rights, hopefully. Another tidbit: I read that the original designer of Chlo (Gaby Aghion) named the brand after a faux-fur manufacturing friend.
Surely that means Phoebe was an upgrade to Chlo, with her seemingly great affinity for using (and not wasting) lovely skins, and I hope she’ll remain the queen of quality hide, bringing that to Cline for now. Even if she can’t make a single suggestion for new versions of my favorite bag, I’m not too saddened by that; the best re-invention of the Paddy yet will be featured in a coming post. (Plus I must feature an article comparing Omazic’s designs with the Paddington styles, highlighting improvements this maestro could make, with some hopeful merging with the basics of the satchel.)
Maybe new brains’ re-workings of IT bags is part of what keeps them fresh throughout the years, even? There’s always hope where’s there are more/new talented minds.
And that reminds me further of my frustrations with the biz’s game of fashionable chairs - the designer of Chlo’s Spring 2008 collection, Paulo Melim Andersson, made bags that brought more excitement to me than I’d felt since the classic Paddy (or perhaps the chocolate croc), yet he was axed (soon after the Fall ‘08 show, also around the time the Spring bags debut at stores).
What is up? Am I out of synch with the style times?–since I am afterall still in love, and always will be, with a bag many turned their noses from long ago. Despite its original status and being the cause of the entire IT bag phenomenon, most but the hugest Chlo fans atually now merely see it as the biggest *fad* bag - a time-sensitive style that’s OUT with the trash. Le Sigh.
The entire angle of this article shows that I’m in love with a designer of the past. Yet every one of her fans is, as well - and recycling is a lot of what fashion is. The only reason this new designer for Cline is such a story is because of her particular work with that other brand years ago - and we all know most’s fave of her work - I am not alone. My readers are with me, even if not for the Paddington, perhaps just the leather, maybe the Silverado, or even the Edith, or………..
It proves it certain, this historybooks designer retains her following, and is sure to to a great designer of the future, as well.
Welcome back, dear Phoebs - and I wonder - new/contemporary/young/hip baby bags to be born?
Collections to look forward to:
- There is conflicting information, or at least confusing wording, around the web as to when Philo’s first collection for Cline will show, but to my understanding it will likely first be walked down the runway in October 2009 for Paris Fashion Week Spring 2010, after being completed in design and mockup next March. (When does she start?!) Phoebe is set to get to work this October!
- See the last of Ivana Omazic’s design for Cline in the Thurs., 2nd of Oct. show during Paris Fashion Week.
- Chlo’s Spring 2009 collection will debut on Oct. 4th, also in Paris.
Humorous Foot(ankle-bag)note: If you wanted to read about Phoebe Philo’s clothing designs, take note; you’re reading a handbag blog! 
Further thanks to: Wikipedia.
